Tuesday, June 15, 2010

what a kerfuffle



"Rip it up yeah, that's what it's there for, so rip it up yeah, and rip it up and tear it up, until you really don't know why..."

Unless you've met Mr Michael Van Der Ham. As a gentleman playing a personal game of juxtaposition, not only does he know why, but he also knows exactly who, where, what and when to cut, chop, mix and mismatch to win hands up. Yadda yadda he went to Central Saint Martins. Blah biddy blah blah he came up trumps. Etcetera etcetera he won some awards. But who took note of the satire? Where is his medal for that? It's like we bumped into his clothes one day and they invited us over for tea, where from their armchair beside the range they proffered their view on contemporary clothing "fashion is just so transgressive these days.. So much so that I don't believe it makes a bit of difference really that my sleeve came from the eighties but my centre panel, yes that came from my grandmother's wedding dress... 1947 I believe it was... A beautiful silk brocade, so delicate, don't you think? Anyway it's fabulous isn't it my dear? The whole thing? Quite beautiful indeed... I'm so over seasonality; that's best kept for the vegetables I say! Stuff the lot of them, those fashion toffs with their airs and graces, we ought to simply get along with it darling and lets see what we can't pull together for ourselves today. Hmm who cares what anybody thinks, it couldn't matter less if you ask me as long as we enjoy today what we're wearing today. Would you like a hot drop deary?..."


Images from source A and source B and for an extra click, or C if you will, look at the Michael Van Der Ham homepage for lots more pictures

Thursday, June 10, 2010

Chloe Sevigny


She's Cool. She gives across this look whereby she a) doesn't try and b) doesn't care, which merits the capital C. She does the multi talented thing really well, like an all-singing, all-dancing child star (except in her case it's all-acting, all-designing and all-modelling too because being the clothes hanger for her pieces makes them all the more brilliant when you first see them, making you like and lust them even more.

Her latest collection was released on Tuesday, Resort 2011 for Opening Ceremony and was a whole lot of patterns put together. Paisley, polka dots, florals, houndstooth and leopard print abound, but not a hint of a headache! The five prints centred around five dresses and the extra pieces were takes on these.

"It's streetwear, it's not high fashion" Sevigny said with a shrug. "It's cool" I said with a nod.


Have a look at the photos from the launch party on the Opening Ceremony's blog here ..

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

copy cat copy cat sitting on the door mat

Imitation is said to be the highest form of flattery, and of course it's perfectly fine to take inspiration from the art work of another. However, I'm not of the opinion that merely placing a mirror infront of something else entitles the reflected image to qualify as an original piece. Which is why I'm not so impressed with the new Cadbury's Flake advertisement.

Essentially it's a video of Russian model Yulia Lobova swirling and twirling through the air in a flowing dress made by designer Antony Price. It's quite captivating in terms of the music and movement having a hypnotic effect and I liked it because it reminded me of something Jiri Kylian would choreograph for the Nederlands Dans Theater. But in terms of advertising a product it's not obviously successful in that the viewer has no idea about what they are watching until just at the end where there's an "ohhh now I get it" moment.



Gone are the sensuous Flake women and their passionate love affairs with chocolate of past adverts and here is the dress. Over 200 metres of handmade georgette is pleated, frilled and ruffled to create a garment reminiscent of the folds found in a Flake bar. Now you get it.



Standing alone, yes, it's an impressive dress, and you can see the impression of details of a coral reef from which Price claims to draw aquatic inspiration. BUT. But but but is it still as impressive if you've heard of Alexander McQueen before? Because this is where I become a sceptic. The comparison between the Flake advert and the hologram from McQueen's Fall/Winter 2006 collection is too much. An uncanny resemblance you ask? Well... plain old daylight robbery if you ask me.


Sunday, May 30, 2010

no elephants in this room

My last post has me still thinking about tribal patterns and until now I liked the marc by Marc Jacobs RTW Spring collection because of the big bows and the bright colours, but now I'm really noticing the range of patterns used and it's making me like it all the more. The collection actually does something quite spectacular in bringing African prints into the realm of 'trendy' and I think 'collection' is exactly the word for it, as he has brought together a host of geographical and historical features. He borrows ethnic patterns for his fabrics and vintage styles (and some of his own, already used ideas) for his designs which sounds like a recipe for disaster, but surprisingly the clash works really well






And in the spirit of this I decided today to wear a necklace I bought in London in January. I love the small animals, especially the elephant I wish I had another chain made just of elephants!



And if I were to expand my wardrobe by a few items then one of the first things I'd put on my shopping list would be this bag from Urban Outfitters, it's crazy cool! Next I'd order either these beads from Dannijo or perhaps a skirt from the People Tree. In general I think their clothes are suited to women a little older than me (yes my mum does like them!) but this skirt (right) is an exception as it's such a simple style, plus I like the pattern, plus I like what they do. People Tree is an ethical clothing company whose products are produced in developing countries in line with Fair Trade principles set out by the World Fair Trade Organisation. They use organic cotton and natural dyes and strive to keep environmental damage to a minimum by using recycled or biodegradable products where possible, whilst simultaneously improving the lives of a multitude of people as the work helps eleviate poverty in the communities where production is based. This skirt in particular is made from a handwoven cotton, and if I were wearing it for the summer I'd probably put it with a simple white cotton shirt and brown pair of gladiator sandals. Read their mission statement HERE to see what I mean about the good they do.

Friday, May 28, 2010

traveltales


Jamie Oliver has a book out at the moment entitled 'Jamie Does...' where he takes the reader on a culinary trek through world cuisines. Well if I were to pen a self-titled guide book related to world fashion I can't decide whether I'd begin my expedition in India or North Africa. Travelling by train, donkey, camel, flying carpet, I'd traverse the exotic landscapes stopping off at markets to fill my trunks and my tummy.


Which is why I'm posting about Dries Van Noten. You may have seen his collection already but I think the colours and the patterns are exactly what I would be looking for in my wardrobe upon returning to the real world after my visit to the corners of the earth. The collection is an adventure in itself; an assemblage of fantastic fabrics that are actually really wearable. He mixed handwoven materials with silks, satins and embroideries, and blended earthy, sandy hues with bright tropical colours so we can dress ourselves like queens of the empires of long ago.






Tuesday, May 25, 2010

a piece on knitting

I found something I wrote some time ago (many words, questionable amounts of sense) :

It's an Irish thing really, having a cup of tea when you arrive home. And how often have you arrived in someone else's home where you're greeted by their automatically reaching to put the kettle on? Perhaps it's because there is a comforting something that can only be found in a milky cuppa or maybe it's the tradition in itself that's reassuring. Generations have grown up with it, unconsciously enforcing an act that ties us to our heritage. Country folk know it and the city folk, well, as cosmopolitan as they may appear to be I'm sure that if you were to ask any skinny-cappuccino-with-extra-foam-and-no-chocolate lover, you would find them hard pushed to disagree.
With an increasingly international feel coming over our urban centres we may struggle to be forward focused and look to the future as where we wish to be right now, but is the grass always greener on the other side? What if, bearing the line of tradition in mind, the past is where it really was all at? What if, in this desire to be as far away from where we are right now, we are losing invaluable connections with our own identity? What if we are ignoring our heritage in an attempt to connect with the European masses and to integrate ourselves as part of the "new generation?"
Not to come across as blinded with nostalgia I agree there's nothing wrong with progression, admittedly nobody would ever get anywhere if they were forever looking back, but remaining considerate of what the past has taught us is important. From drinking tea to knitting clothes our Irish history has adopted a 'granny' tag for Celtic Tiger children and it's sad to think that what was once considered a normal way of life has been labelled as out of date and hence shoved to the back of the shelf for so long. Which is why I' glad to see one of the side effects of the recession has been a return to the 'make, mend and do' attitude as well as a renewed interest in homemade crafts.
For many people learning to knit was a formative part of their childhood. Whether it was learned from an older relative or int he classroom in school, we all did it and most of us probably have a wobbly scarf or a stuffed santa somewhere in the attic. And now that knitting is 'cool' again we're no longer shy to say we loved it. With knitting groups popping up around the place it has become resurrected as a social pastime, bringing together people with a shared bond through a common interest. Perhaps we aren't reverting to the extremes of stitching our own socks, but it's a start; the step toward preventing the extinction of one of the central elements of Irish heritage. It connects us to the land and it connects us to the satisfaction of self sufficiency which is so easily forgotten in today's fast paced living environmnet. So even if the thought of approaching a pattern for an Aran sweater seems too mammoth a task I would encourage you to consider picking up your needles and casting on a few plain purl rows and see if it will reel you in.


So that was the long way around my saying I think knitting is important. It's not up there on the list of things I think everybody should know how to do incase there's a minor emergency like swim for example, but I still think it's pretty important. And for other reasons too, such as its sustainability. Maybe being from the west coast it's easier for me to get my hands on locally sourced wool, but I'm sure most places stock raw materials produced in their own country if not their own county. So in this way it's not running up a carbon footprint in flying across the world and it certainly isn't creating any pollution from the chimney in your living room, meaning it's excellent for the environment.

And on the point of eco friendliness, there is a British company called 'The North Circular' which was set up by Lily Cole and Katherine Poulton along with Alice Ashby (Central Saint Martin's Graduate)and Isobel Davies. Made with the wool from sheep in a North Yorkshire sanctuary the North Circular pieces are knit by a team that mainly consists of elderly English ladies whom you can read about on their website, which I think brings a really nice personal touch. And the company gets even more ethical - they use a minimum amount of packaging AND the sheep live off organic grass AND the dying of the wool is done locally with natural dyes.
The brand, whose mottos is "knitted by grannies, supported by supermodels", began with hats and gloves but are rapidly expanding to include more modern knitwear pieces such as the recently popular snoods and they plan to develop a ready-to-wear collection in the future. So there you have it - the North Circular: a good way to feel fuzzy and warm on the inside and out!

Friday, May 21, 2010

just whistle while you work

My summer holidays are to be spent in an office. Working. So not really holidays as such, I guess more correctly I should say my summer job is an office job. Either way I'll be doing a Dolly Parton on it and working nine to five, which isn't actually all that bad because it's only for a little while and plus I'm friends with everyone already from having worked there last summer so I'm not the newbie anymore (hate being the awkward new person in a place)

I started out with glamourous ideas of being a receptionist. I was going to be a Miss Moneypenny with large clip-on earrings I'd remove each time the phone rang and I'd spend an unnecessary amount of time gossiping by the water cooler. However, in reality it's less 'Mad Men' and more 'ordinary office'. But that doesn't mean I'm not thinking about what to wear.

This year I've taken to wearing shirts a lot and of late I've become rather fond of tailored trousers. I love the Princess Diana look of an oxford shirt tucked into high waisted pants so she's going to be credited as my inspiration for bringing the two together. Then I'll just try and make it a bit more me.


Photos thanks to facehunter. And in other news I have been busying my fingers with some hand crafting as my knitting season is over and I was getting fidgety waiting to get home to my sewing machine. I made a few brooches and gave some away but here's photos of the latest ones:

Saturday, May 1, 2010

m.i.a


i wish i could say my blog has fallen by the wayside because i've run away to join the circus but alas no, i'm merely busy with all the end of year bits and bobs of college... but i'll get back to proper posting once it's all over. love the summer. love love